Perfect Weekend in Salvador
Salvador is a mesmerising shroud of mystery amid tropical greenery. Here, you will discover the roots of Afro-Brazilian culture through Bahian cuisine, capoeira in the streets and samba on the beaches. Salvador's most beloved author, Jorge Amado, describes Bahian culture as a phenomenon that 'enters through the eyes, the ears, the mouth and penetrates all the senses.'
Brazilians travel to Salvador for a short vacation because it is a delightful paradise brimming with life. This 3-day itinerary will draw your attention to the hidden gems and wonders of Salvador. You will absorb the positive and playful energy of Bahianas that you will leave radiating with confidence. Que gostoso!
Where to Stay:
Pelourinho is my pick if you want to be in the heart of Salvador. In this charming old town, you will find many cosy pousadas (Portuguese for 'inn') run by Brazilian families ready to receive you with open arms. Pousadas are a great budget option that gives you an authentic and unforgettable living experience.
Transport:
Uber is an excellent option when travelling to other neighbourhoods. It is easy, quick and most importantly, safe! Salvador also has a decent metro system - if you are flying into Salvador, this is a good low-cost option to travel from the airport to the city.
A Note on Safety:
Armed policemen patrol the touristy Pelourinho but that does not ward off the pickpockets. Robbery is prevalent in Salvador especially amongst the tourist attractions so take care not to flash any valuables.
Salvador 3 Day Itinerary
Day 0
Arrive in Salvador and settle in to your pousada. Your Bahian adventure starts tomorrow!
Day 1
8AM-12PM: Enjoy the blessings of wedding cake churches
Start your day with a stroll into the cotton candy dreamland of Pelourinho, the photogenic colonial town with cobblestone streets and buildings painted with a pastel palette. Pelourinho directly translates to pillory in English and the main square, Largo do Pelourinho, was once a marketplace for slaves. Nowadays, you will find food stands so enjoy a Bahian breakfast of salgado tapioca which are cheese filled crepes made with cassava flour.
Learn about the history of Salvador by visiting its churches. You absolutely cannot miss Igreja de São Francisco! The church is a brief walk from the Largo do Pelourinho. The gold-plated interior of this church will absolutely stun Baroque lovers. It is no doubt a sight for sore eyes and will leave you in complete awe. Make sure to visit the convent as well because you will find the history of this church depicted on azulejos (blue hand-printed tiles from Portugal).
A short Uber ride from Pelourinho will take you to another sacred church, Igreja de Nosso Senhor do Bonfim. This church is particularly special because it embodies Candomblé which is a religion brought to Salvador by the enslaved Africans. Candomblé means 'dancing in honour of the gods and each god (orixa) manages a different aspect of life. The concept of Candomblé is to live life to the fullest while overcoming the challenges of one's destined path.
The interior of Igreja de Nosso Senhor do Bonfim is extraordinary with its glittery frames and azulejo tiles sharing its story. The magic extends to the exterior where thousands of fita de bonfims are tied to the fencing of the church. Fita de bomfims are coloured ribbons with each colour linked to an orixa. I visited on a Saturday which is ruled by two goddesses, Iemanja and Oxum. The lively vendor told me that I reminded her of Iemanja and gave me a light blue ribbon representing peaceful love. You can purchase these ribbons all over Salvador and tie it to your wrist as a bracelet. They say once that bracelet unties itself from your wrist, your wish has come true.
12PM-2PM: Experience Bahian cuisine
Have lunch at Casa da Gamboa, a welcoming restaurant serving the tasty vatapá (a strong-flavoured combination of almonds, coconut milk, ginger, manioc flour, peppers, shrimp and the most important Bahian ingredient, dendê palm oil.
2PM-7PM: Ride the iconic Elevador Lacerda and shop at Mercado Modelo
Stroll through Praça da Sé on the way to Elevador Lacerda and take a moment to watch a capoeira performance. Capoeira is an Afro-Brazilian style of martial arts that combines aspects of Candomblé and dance. Once you reach Elevador Lacerda, the view over the enchanting Baia de Todos os Santos (Bay of All Saints) is wonderful and if you're comfortable around huge crowds a great place to watch the sunset. Salvador is split in two so Pelourinho is located in the upper city. Take the lift down to the Cidade Baixa (the lower city) and shop for souvenirs at Mercado Modelo.
If you'd like a more private viewing of the sunset and I highly recommend this, take an Uber to Museu de Arte Moderna. An old sugar processing factory converted into an art museum conducts a jazz music concert on Saturday evenings. The museum is also by the bay so here, you will enjoy a more intimate sunset experience.
7PM-9PM: Dine at the classy Amado restaurant
This seafood restaurant is expensive but it is worth the splurge! This is Brazilian fine dining, typical Bahian foods served with a modern twist. There is a beautiful outdoor lounge area that overlooks the bay.
NIGHT TIME: Dance the night away!
Pelourinho has so many samba bars to choose from that it can be daunting deciding which one to go to. Bar Fundo do Cravinho, also known as the Bahia Samba Club, is the coolest cachaça bar I've visited in Brazil. It gets pretty packed and the party is taken out to the streets. Samba is all about letting go and living in the moment.
Day 2
9:30AM-11:30AM: Morning of Museums
Start your morning with a cupuaçu juice for breakfast. Visit the Museu Abelardo Rodrigues to see folk art and the Museu Tempostal to see postcards from all over the world.
12PM-3PM: Moqueca by the water
Moqueca is a quintessential Bahian dish featured on Netflix's Street Food: Latin America. A wholesome restaurant, Ré Restaurant Dona Suzana, located in the lower city was mentioned in the episode about Salvador, Brazil. Enjoy a mouth-watering moqueca, a seafood stew cooked with dendê palm oil.
Catch a five-minute uber to Praia do Porta da Barra where you can connect with locals on the beach. Quench your thirst from the heat with a fresh coconut sold by vendors beaming with joy. Rent a bicycle and ride around the relaxed Barra neighbourhood where you will find cool street art. Visit Farol da Barra, the first lighthouse built in the Americas.
3PM-7PM: Explore the artsy and bohemian Rio Vermelho
Even if you haven't read Jorge Amado (you really should!), visit his house Casa do Rio Vermelho to see some incredible art. It is a really groovy space and you can learn a lot about the city he loved. Walk down to Largo de Santana for an afternoon snack of acarajé (black-eyed pea fritters with shrimp paste). You will see Bahiana women wearing traditional white dresses and a classic, colourful headwrap making these treats. Walk down to the shores to enjoy the sunset and dine at Restaurante Casa de Tereza. Try the xinxim de galinha, a Brazilian chicken stew cooked with Salvador's favourite dendê palm oil.
NIGHT TIME: Party time!
Brazilians love to party and Rio Vermelho is a quirky spot to hit the dancefloor. San Sebastian is where the party's at, a trendy nightclub playing the hottest Brazilian hits.
Day 3
10AM-1PM: Beach-hopping along the coast
Our last day in Salvador is going to be spent enjoying the sun and lounging on the sultry beaches. Bahia boasts that their beaches are the best in the world, casting a spell over you and enchanting you. Vadinho whisked away the young Dona Flor to Itapoã for their honeymoon in Dona Flor and her Two Husbands. Catch an Uber from Pelourinho to the surf village of Itapoã which takes about 20 minutes.
The beaches on this side of Salvador are much different to the more touristy neighbourhoods. These surf villages are frequented by local Bahianas and are quiet in comparison to the beaches mentioned yesterday. Vendors leisurely stroll the beach singing their menu - my favourite dish is the abará, similar to acarajé but the black eyed peas are steamed and the fritter is wrapped in banana leaves. Take a short Uber trip to Praia do Flamengo where coconut palm trees guide the way to the dazzling shores.
1:30PM-3PM: An easy-going lunch in a tropical paradise
A half-hour drive away from Praia do Flamengo is Paraíso Tropical. The major detour into suburban Salvador is worth it because the seafood in this tropical paradise is the catch of the day! Plants are completely cover this place and jabuticaba trees surround the seating area. The moqueca at Paraíso Tropical is unlike any other due to its inclusion of tropical fruits. Take note, it gets very busy on the weekends!
3:30PM-7PM: Relax at the honeymoon bay of São Tomé de Paripe
Dona Flor's second husband, the gentle and kind Dr Teodoro, brought her to the calm and peaceful beach town of São Tomé de Paripe for their honeymoon. Many Bahianas have their honeymoon here because it is very cosy and intimate. The turquoise waters are the calmest in Salvador and rather shallow, perfect for those who cannot swim. You will find locals kayaking and paddleboarding. You can reach this hidden gem from Paraíso Tropical by catch an Uber which will take you roughly 30 minutes.
No trip to Brazil is truly complete until you have visited Salvador.