Perfect Getaway in Quito
Quito is a quaint and romantic city that is leisurely combining the new with the old. It is the first place in the world to be crowned a UNESCO World Heritage city. Brimming with rich culture and history, Quito is the perfect getaway from the humdrum of modern life. Once you arrive in Quito, the streets echo with the serenades of Ecuador's iconic pasillo musician, Julio Jaramillo. I like to think of pasillo as a slower and wistful genre of music compared to the romantic bolero.
Arriving at Mariscal Sucre International Airport, lively taxi drivers blast pasillo while speeding through sharp twists and turns to Ecuador's capital hidden within the northern highlands. The roads alternated from bumpy cobblestone to uneven concrete but the view overlooking Guayllabamba valley is worth the bouncy ride. Upon arriving in Quito, the high altitude of over 9000 feet quite literally takes your breath away. The best way to combat altitude sickness is to keep hydrated so check out the plethora of cute cafes. The herbal guayusa tea gave me a fresh breath of life to continue on my journey through Quito.
For the perfect getaway in Quito, I highly recommend a visit to the following three neighbourhoods.
La Ronda: A Neighbourhood Reminiscent of Old-school Romance
Calle de la Ronda is a gorgeous street within the old town that will make you feel as though you have time travelled back into a classic romance novel with its colonial Spanish terraces with balcony gardens. There are signs on the terraces that recount this street's story written in both English and Spanish. This part of Quito is the epitome of romance with many charming cafes to indulge in some guaguas de pan (Ecuadorian brioche babies) and sip on the intoxicating canelazo (reminds me of an alcoholic chai-infused juice). In the evening, Calle de la Ronda lights up with lanterns and you can hear live music playing from the street's numerous bars.
Quiteños love their cafes, it is their way of meeting new people and networking in a comfortable setting. La Ronda is a real treat because it has an abundance of dessert shops and sweet stands. It is of utmost importance that you savour the Ecuadorian espumilla. This guava meringue cream can be found at a street stall in front of a cotton candy pink house. It is an Ecuadorian tradition to spoon feed the espumilla to your lover. If you're like me and always have room for more dessert, you cannot miss the nearby Heladería Dulce Placer with its 509 different flavours!
La Ronda is made for those with a sweet tooth because here, you will also find the Republica del Cacao. Ecuador boasts some of the best chocolate in the world and you can learn about the Ecuador's rich chocolate history at Republica del Cacao. Their chocolate boutique also has a cafe that sells a scrumptious hot chocolate that apparently alleviates altitude sickness. On the topic of chocolate, you should definitely try the Pacari brand which means nature in Quechua (the language of the Incas). Their flagship store (located in La Floresta) offers private chocolate tasting sessions where you can sample their decadent chocolate combined with exotic fruits.
Enjoy a leisurely lunch at Plaza Grande, officially called the Independence Square. Pekaraz serves a delicious locro de papa (potato soup served with avocado, crumbled cheese and toasted corn) and fresh ceviche. Many people gather in the square to watch street performances against the backdrop of white-washed buildings and foliage. There are many art galleries in the area showcasing Quiteño art but if you only have time for one, make it Casa de Arte. A visit to Museo de la Ciudad is essential to continue your historical studies on Ecuador and appreciate Quito's treasured artefacts. Quito's crowned jewel, Compañía de Jesús, is a baroque style church with an interior coated with gold. The gold church is a short walk from Plaza Grande, you cannot miss this gem!
Stroll over to the next-door San Roque neighbourhood to find Mercado San Francisco. This is the oldest market in Quito (opened in 1897!) where you will find traditional curanderas who can heal your troubles amongst other goods and services. A curandera will take you to a room behind curtains and request that you strip to your underwear. The curandera will then cleanse you by rubbing aromatic herbs over your body and prescribe you with herbal remedies. It is an extraordinary experience which I recommend to those searching for shamanic healing.
La Mariscal: The Intercultural Party Hub
Locally known as Gringolandia, La Mariscal is home to many expats so there are several hostels that cater to the wandering backpacker. This is Quito's new town where you will feel an obvious modern shift from the historical La Ronda. Plaza Foch has an energetic and welcoming vibe where you will see a nice blend of people from different cultures interacting with each other.
Did you know that the Panama hat actually comes from Ecuador? Shop for a panama hat at Mercado Artesanal La Mariscal. This market has a wide range of Ecuadorian souvenirs and textiles such as alpaca blankets, handmade leather goods and jewellery made from tagua (Ecuadorian ivory). Take a short Uber ride to the TeleferiQo to watch a sensational sunset as the cable car climbs up the Pichincha volcano to the scenic Cruz Loma lookout.
La Mariscal is the place to party! This is the epicentre of Quito's nightlife because a big portion of Quiteños enjoy a quiet night in. Spend your night bar hopping on Calle Reina Victoria. Dirty Sanchez is a fan favourite - this groovy club is a great place to meet people while listening to reggae and tropical tunes. Head to Bungalow 6, who proclaim to be Quito's most notorious discoteca, for the popular ladies night on Wednesdays.
La Floresta: For lovers of contemporary and culinary arts
An artsy and foodie scene awaits you at La Floresta. La Floresta is a creative's haven - this bohemian neighbourhood houses two top universities in Ecuador so it has a fresh and youthful exuberance. The art galleries in Quito's old town display historic and traditional artwork whereas the art exhibits in La Floresta are innovative and progressive. La Floresta embodies the debate between progress versus tradition and science versus spirituality.
La Floresta is chic and elegant with its classical architecture and verdant walkways. You will find artisan eateries, boutiques and entertainment quarters that exudes nostalgia. In the evenings, hang out at the Ocho y Medio Theater where you can view indie films and drink local craft beer. Later in the night, visit El Pobre Diablo jazz club and enjoy their live shows.
There are so many incredible street stands and restaurants in the La Floresta neighbourhood. Walking tours are available that include a guide highlighting all the best places to eat traditional Ecuadorian cuisine.
Here are some of the most popular Ecuadorian foods you need to try:
Cuy asado (roasted guinea pig) is an Ecuadorian delicacy and can be found at the street stands.
Bolones de verde are mashed green plantains molded into dumplings and stuffed with cheese.
Encebollado is a spicy onion and tuna soup, the perfect cure for a hangover.
Llapingachos are fried potato pancakes filled with cheese and served with peanut sauce and sliced avocado.
Here are my top picks for Ecuadorian treats:
Higos con queso is a cafe classic side-dish that goes well with a coffee. It is essentially sweet figs candied in cane sugar and cheese.
Quimbolito is the ultimate afternoon snack - they are sweet steamed cakes wrapped in plantain leaves.
Morocho is a spiced corn pudding beverage with cinnamon and raisins. It has the consistency of a thickshake.
Colada morada is a purple drink of lemon verbana leaves, passionfruit and purple cornflour sweetened with brown sugar.
Jugo de tamarillo is a refreshing fruit juice with sugar and water.
A short Uber trip away is Itchimbia Park, a great viewpoint over Quito where you will find a glass building known as the Crystal Palace. Walk over to eccentric and vegetarian-friendly Cafe Mosaico to watch the sunset.
To end this perfect getaway in Quito, venture out north to Mitad del Mundo (the Middle of the World) where the equator lies. Check out the cool experiments at the Intiñan Solar Museum such as witnessing the Coriolis effect when the toilet flushes. I suggest a relaxing afternoon at the Termas de Papallacta. The Papallacta hot springs are nestled in the Ecuadorian hinterland and you will find yourself surrounded by nature. The drive from Quito to the hot springs is just under an hour.